Why you should visit Dordogne with your dog-

Have you ever heard of the region of Dordogne, in the southwest of France? Also called Périgord, its historical name, it is with reason one of France’s most beloved destinations for travellers.
Here you’ll spend your holiday by the riverside: several beautiful rivers, starting with Dordogne which gave the region its name, but also Dronne or Vézère, flow through this idyllic and typically French landscape.
Ever heard of the label “plus beaux villages de France”, meaning “most beautiful villages in France”? Dordogne holds the record with no less than 10 villages bearing this most envied crown. And almost every other village can boast an exceptional heritage. Magnificent castles and abbeys await, and they will most probably look very different from what you’re used to seeing: in Dordogne, the architecture blends with the rock in wondrous troglodytic forms. Some villages and abbeys are carved directly into the cliffs of tender limestone, bearing witness to an incredibly ancient history – remember we’re just a stone’s throw from the Lascaux caves, Europe’s most famous prehistoric cave! And don’t get me started on the food, from river fish, ducks, cabécous (local goat cheese), and other delicious specialties of the Southwest…
Don’t hesitate, bring your four-legged furry friend with you. I have never encountered such a dog-friendly destination before. We were able to bring our dogs everywhere, visit all the attractions with them, and stay in accommodations where they were genuinely welcomed – I’ll share the best dog-friendly addresses in this article! To plan your holiday in Dordogne Périgord, with or without dogs, follow the guide: we were enchanted by this exceptional French destination.

France’s most beautiful villages : Dordogne’s top ten

If Dordogne is often named among France’s most beautiful destinations, it’s for good reason: its villages, where golden stone and carved wood reflect in the rivers, have shaped the region’s reputation. Beautiful villages which do stand out thanks to their historical heritage and picturesque flair can try and obtain the label “plus beau village de France”, France’s most beautiful village. 159 villages in France currently have that label, and among them, 10 are located in Dordogne – this region is truly exceptional! These picturesque villages capture an idyllic image of France, and one of the most famous is La Roque-Gageac. Here are three others that I discovered and fell in love with.

Saint-Amand-de-Coly

The sight of Saint-Amand-de-Coly, with its monumental abbey, is simply striking. Known as the most beautiful fortified church in Périgord, this impressive structure dominates the village. If you can, take a guided tour to learn about its unique Romanesque-Gothic architecture and the remarkable engineering behind its spectacular vault. Wander through the village, with its charming alleys, golden stone buildings, and picturesque old hospital.

Where to stay? At Hôtellerie de l’Abbaye, a cozy and welcoming hotel with a view of the abbey. We spent two wonderful nights here, where the friendly staff made us—and our dogs—feel right at home.

Saint-Jean-de-Côle

Saint-Jean-de-Côle is a village that will leave you in awe. The picturesque 12th-century bridge spans the Côle River, while the Saint-Jean-Baptiste Church, with its rare beauty and Eastern influences, transports you to another time. The Prieuré, a majestic 16th-century building, completes the image of this perfect village. And as if the “Most Beautiful Village of France” label wasn’t enough, Saint-Jean-de-Côle is also known for its stunning flowers, especially the lush hydrangeas that I adored.

Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, Rivers and Castles

The Vézère River, a tributary of the Dordogne, brings its own charm to the region. I loved the peaceful atmosphere along its banks in Saint-Léon, with kayaks passing by and cafés by the water. But the highlight of my stay was discovering the donjon and manor of La Salle.

Wondrous castles in Dordogne to discover with your dog

Dordogne isn’t just known for its incredible villages, it also boasts magnificent castles. Here are three great ideas for a “princess day out,” with a dog-friendly twist.

Visit the Donjon and Manor of La Salle with your dog

My absolute favourite: the Donjon and Manor of La Salle in Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère. This architectural gem includes a dizzying 12th-century donjon, a Renaissance manor, and French-style gardens with boxwood mazes and deep wells. The view from the donjon is breathtaking, and the manor’s alchemical and astronomical collections will delight any Harry Potter fan. Best of all, dogs are welcome inside, which is rare and fantastic!

Hike around Château de la Grande Filolie with your dog

Just near Saint-Jean-de-Côle, enjoy a lovely hike around the Château de la Grande Filolie. Although the castle is private and not open for tours, it has a fairy-tale charm surrounded by lush greenery. The easy walk offers stunning views, and our dogs adored it—though, be warned, if you have a golden retriever like mine, there are mud ponds to enjoy!

Renaissance flair at Château de Hautefort

Step back into the 16th century at Château de Hautefort, one of Dordogne’s most stunning castles. While dogs aren’t allowed inside, you can visit the beautiful gardens with them. The nearby village of Hautefort is also charming, with small covered wells, fountains, and the Museum of Medicine in the 17th-century Hôtel Dieu.

Troglodyte Sites to Visit in Dordogne with Your Dog

One of the highlights of the Périgord region? Troglodyte sites! In this limestone area, humans have been living in caves since ancient times, leaving behind numerous traces of their presence. The result is visually stunning. Here are a few ideas for diving into the heart of the rock.

Brantôme-en-Périgord and Bimbillou Park

Brantôme-en-Périgord left us in awe: this semi-troglodyte town, set on the edge of the river and dominated by the majestic silhouette of a thousand-year-old Benedictine abbey—founded, according to legend, by Charlemagne himself—is simply breathtaking. Take the time to visit the abbey, dogs are allowed even inside and it would be a pity to miss the cloister and the pilgrims’ inn, with its spectacular vaulted ceiling in the shape of an inverted ship’s hull. And do not miss the peculiar bridge that spans the river Dronne. It is called the Pont Coudé, or ‘Bent Bridge’, named for its unique, sharp curve. The bridge’s unusual shape is a notable feature, as it bends sharply to follow the course of the river, offering a charming and picturesque view.

After your visit to Brantôme, walk along the river Dronne and head to Bimbillou Park, a troglodyte site and eco-museum showcasing the region’s traditional craftsmanship and life in the past. Deep inside the caves, you’ll step back into the traditional life of the 1900s, discover ancient know-how through an impressive collection of authentic objects, and enjoy the beautiful riverside setting, where you can relax with a coffee by the water.

Le Conquil, a Dinosaur Encounter

A nice and quirky visit! Le Conquil  features rock shelters inhabited since the Paleolithic period, later fortified in the Middle Ages, and surprisingly well preserved—an impressive walk through time. But Le Conquil is also a dinosaur park. These animated, noisy prehistoric creatures will delight the little ones (though our dogs were a bit more skeptical), and offer an exciting zoological journey into the ancient world. The site also includes a treetop adventure park (Prehistobranch!) and is genuinely dog-friendly: we loved the “toutoubar” (a bar for dogs)!

La Roque Saint Christophe, the Cliff Village

Just a stone’s throw from Lascaux, the troglodyte site of La Roque Saint Christophe is another major testament to human habitation in caves throughout the centuries. This incredible troglodyte village truly impressed me: 55,000 years of human occupation! In the Middle Ages, up to a thousand people lived in these cliffside caves above the Vézère River. The visit offers stunning views and gives a fascinating insight into the social, religious, commercial, and artisanal life of our ancestors. It’s both enriching and unique—and yes, it’s dog-friendly!

Visit Terrasson-Lavilledieu, the Hidden Gem of Périgord Noir

Before embarking on this wonderful journey with our dogs in Dordogne, we had never heard of the charming town of Terrasson, the gateway to the Périgord Noir. But I urge you to remember its name, because this magical medieval town was an unexpected love at first sight.

The old town of Terrasson stands proudly above the river, with its majestic terraces and knightly maze of narrow streets. On the terraces, we enjoyed an exceptional view and felt like stepping into the tumultuous story of the Middle Ages in Southwest France. We were particularly struck by the emphasis on craftsmanship and traditional skills. The town is incredibly rich in small shops, talented artisans, and original boutiques.

But I saved the best for last…

This is my other favorite spot in Périgord: the fabulous Jardins de l’Imaginaire (Gardens of the Imaginary) in Terrasson-Lavilledieu. Don’t miss this extraordinary place, where nature blends with art and spirituality for a poetic, lush walk through the elements—and it’s dog-friendly! The gardens were created by Franco-American artist Kathryn Gustafson, who is part of the land art movement: transforming the landscape into a canvas, a botanical and artistic composition designed to evoke emotions through universal symbols. The Gardens of the Imaginary combine natural elements with inspirations drawn from all religions and spiritualities. On our dreamlike stroll, we stepped into twelve different landscapes, each creating its own atmosphere for an immersion in nature with a mystical feel. Additionally, the panoramic views of the old town of Terrasson are remarkable.

Dordogne with a Dog: Wonderful Dog-Friendly Restaurant Picks

Here are some fantastic and flavorful restaurants we loved discovering during our wonderful trip to Dordogne with our dogs. These dog-friendly spots all warmly welcome your furry companion!

La Table de Jean in Coly – An exceptional gastronomic experience, vibrant and deeply rooted in its local terroir, with a list of all the producers the restaurant sources from!

La Mandragore in Terrasson – An absolutely unique setting within the city walls, offering inventive, fruity flavors. I really loved the desserts!

Le Restaurant de la Poste in Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère – A beautiful inner garden, very warm hospitality, and large, creative salads.

L’Othentic in Saint-Martin-de-Fressengeas – A family-run restaurant for three generations, warm and generous: a true taste of Périgord!

Les Pilotis in Montignac-Lascaux – For the joy of dining by the water in a beautifully natural setting!

Where to Stay in Dordogne with Your Dog?

During our wonderful stay in the Périgord, we discovered a truly unique campsite. Parenthèses Imaginaires offers charming cabins and bungalows scattered throughout nature, set in an enchanting environment: a myriad of ponds, forests, ferns, and sandy paths full of curiosities. This place is more than just accommodation; it’s a creative and playful escape experience where art, nature, and play come together to offer something truly original. There are treasure hunts, geocaching, art installations, and wellness trails—plenty of activities to explore and get lost in the woods, encountering poetic and unexpected sights along the way. Some of the lakes are open for swimming (for both humans and their furry friends), others are dedicated to fishing, and one is for water activities like kayaking or paddleboarding. Our dogs were very welcome, and we loved our little house nestled in the trees.

Visiting Dordogne with your dog: why I loved it

Dordogne is the most dog-friendly destination I’ve visited to date. Restaurateurs, hoteliers, and activity providers didn’t just accept dogs; they were genuinely welcoming and kind to them, with little gestures of care and a lot of warmth. It’s a destination you should definitely consider if you’re traveling in France with your dog!

Visit Dordogne, Southwestern France: how to get there from the United States

If you are an American traveler wishing to visit Dordogne, here’s how to get there.

Fly to Paris (or another major French airport)

• Paris (Charles de Gaulle Airport, CDG) is the main gateway to France for international travelers, including those coming from the United States. There are many airlines that fly to Paris from major U.S. cities such as New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, etc.
• Other options: You can also consider flying into another international airport, such as Lyon (LYS) or Bordeaux (BOD), which are closer to Dordogne, but flight options from the U.S. may be less frequent.

Take a train or rent a car from Paris (or Bordeaux)

• Train: After landing in Paris, you can take a direct train to Dordogne from Gare Montparnasse or Gare d’Austerlitz in Paris. There are several TGV high-speed train lines connecting Paris to cities like Périgueux, Bergerac, or Sarlat-la-Canéda, in about 4 to 5 hours. Trains are very comfortable and offer great views of the countryside.
• Car rental: If you prefer more flexibility, you can rent a car at the airport in Paris (or Bordeaux) and drive to Dordogne. The drive from Paris takes about 5 to 6 hours, or about 2 hours from Bordeaux. Driving in Dordogne will allow you to explore villages and tourist sites at your own pace.

Alternative option: Domestic flight to Bordeaux

• If you land in Paris, you could also take a domestic flight to Bordeaux (about 1 hour flight). From Bordeaux, you can rent a car or take a train to Dordogne, about 1.5 to 2 hours by car or train.

Direct flight to Bordeaux or Bergerac

• If you’d prefer to avoid Paris, there are also seasonal or regular direct flights from certain U.S. cities to Bordeaux (BOD) or Bergerac (EGC), especially during peak season (spring/summer). These airports are well-situated for quick access to Dordogne.

Depending on where you’re flying from in the U.S., it’s generally simpler to fly into Paris first and then take a train or rent a car to continue your journey.

Tip: For a hassle-free trip, it’s also a good idea to check if the tourist sites or villages you plan to visit in Dordogne are easily accessible by train or public transport, as some areas are more rural and public transportation may be less frequent. I would suggest that you rent a car.

Visit Dordogne, Southwestern France: how to get there from the United Kingdom

Of course, flying to Paris or Bordeaux is possible. But since the UK and France are neighbors, taking the train or driving to Dordogne are also an excellent option for those who prefer not to fly and want a more relaxed, scenic journey. It’s also the best option if you’re travelling to Dordogne with your dog!

Direct flights from the UK to Bordeaux or Bergerac:

There are direct flights from several UK airports (e.g., London, Manchester, Bristol, Edinburgh) to Bordeaux (BOD) or Bergerac (EGC) during the peak seasons (spring and summer). These flights typically take around 2 hours, and from either of these airports, you can easily rent a car or take a train to Dordogne, which is just 1-2 hours away.

From the UK to Dordogne by train:

• Eurostar to Paris: The most convenient way for a British traveler to reach Dordogne by train would be to take the Eurostar from London to Paris Gare du Nord. The journey takes around 2 hours 15 minutes.
• TGV from Paris to Dordogne: From Gare Montparnasse or Gare d’Austerlitz in Paris, you can then take a TGV (high-speed train) to Dordogne. The trip to cities like Périgueux, Bergerac, or Sarlat-la-Canéda typically takes around 4 to 5 hours, depending on your destination.

From the UK to Dordogne by car:

• Driving from the UK: If you prefer the flexibility of having your own vehicle, you can drive from the UK to Dordogne. The easiest route involves driving from London to Dover, taking the Eurotunnel (or ferry) to Calais, and then driving through France. The total drive time is about 7 to 8 hours from Calais to Dordogne, depending on your final destination.
  • Eurotunnel: The Eurotunnel service between Dover and Calais takes around 35 minutes. From Calais, you can then drive down through northern France and continue towards Dordogne. It’s an easy and straightforward journey on major highways (autoroutes), and driving in France is generally comfortable.
  • Alternative Ferry Option: If you prefer, you can also take a ferry from Portsmouth, Newhaven, or Plymouth to Le Havre or Caen, which will give you a longer but more relaxed route to drive across France.

I hope you will enjoy your stay in the southwest of France – and I am sure your dog will love it too!